The Paul Smith SS23 Women’s Collection Effortlessly Flows From Day To Evening


The new Paul Smith SS23 women’s collection is a practical one and one that’s a response to London’s scorching 2022 summer. The House launched the new collection today during Paris Fashion Week, continuing with the louche mood of menswear from the 1980s, with men’s looks included as well. When you see the collection, one thing that’s noticeable aside from the practicality is the strong and contemporary tailoring, and, versatility.

“The men’s and women’s collection were in parallel lines. Both were inspired by a road trip I took many years ago through the South of France, visiting some amazing places with a strong art connection like Saint-Paul de Vence and then also by more recent summer days spent in London gallery-hopping. Like many other people, I try to spend the hottest summer days away from the city, but this season I was thinking about the beauty of the city heat. I love the calmness as it allows for endless gallery hopping and of course the sunshine,” shares Smith.

The ever humble and oh-so down to earth Sir Paul Smith is gifted in tailoring. If you need a suit, for either the male or female silhouette, Paul Smith should be your designer. And since he’s somehow still caught in the 60s and 70s, you can expect a retro touch to any suit with single- or double-breasted styles. For this collection, evening suits take a nod to Smith’s musical icons of the 70s and 80s. “Tailored with a strong shoulder, minimal construction and nipped in waist, the jacket gives the impression of an oversized, boyfriend-inspired silhouette without overwhelming the frame, ensuring a flattering fit,” shares the House in notes.

The white linen tuxedo-style two-piece is a serious but not so serious suit. Fitting for the red carpet or any formal event, it can be worn with a blouse, or a white crop top- a piece that’s new to the House. It’s also available in black.

Another practical element in the collection are the blurred lines between daywear and evening wear- a trend we have seen out of the pandemic. The striped swimsuit with matching pants with the signature House stripes going down the front make going to the pool stylish and easy. But, if the Paul Smith woman chooses, she can dress up the look with matching striped boots.

Shorts are paired with sleeveless blazers with an asymmetric angular closure and strong shoulders, also tailored and done in a cobalt-teal-ish color. Leather pieces bring a unique textile for warmer months, but in the form of a mini skirt and short jacket.

“We were looking to keep the relaxed yet sophisticated mood. The color palette includes various tones of cobalt and burnt orange, which represent the summer heat as well as abstract prints created by using 1980s airbrushing techniques. In terms of fabrics, it was important to keep it light, so we decided to use linen, boucle, jersey, and satin. The airbrush print is a personal favorite and the paler colors have been applied in a really lovely way,” says Smith.

The outerwear is tailored like the jackets and sleeveless tailored blazers that complement the bottom wear. “I’ve done these double-breaster jackets that are sleeveless, which I’m really happy with. You can wear it in the summer time as the top layer and then in the winter time you can wear it as an underlayer with something warmer on the top,” comments Smith. Trenches add a unique touch with, ‘exaggerated shapes giving a feminine interpretation of silhouettes historically understood to be masculine.’ And Boxy Cropped Jackets, one in buttery leather and another in the placement untitled print give a traditional nod to classic shapes. You’ll find airbrushing on trenches and jackets in the collection looks for men and women, an 80s technique.

Smith has created many looks that are fitting to the feminine form with a stylish yet relaxed mood for this collection. Many of the looks are reminiscent of the time when you have returned from vacation and still in vacation mode, and your style of getting back into the swing of things reflects this.



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