The Most Exciting And Inspiring Spring/Summer 2023 Collections From Fashion Week


September is a big month for fashion. It’s during this time of the year that style capitals come to life with vibrant presentations of next year’s Spring/Summer collections. Even for those watching closely through social media and trend reports online, that sense of excitement as another year in fashion unfolds is all too palpable. Fashion powerhouses from New York to London, Milan and Paris—go all out every September with larger-than-life presentations, designed to make resounding statements on the runways. Gucci, for example, wowed with a show where numerous sets of twins sashayed down the catwalk. In New York, Fendi’s iconic Baguette bag summoned all of fashion’s greats to the front row. Among them, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kate Moss, just to name a few. Very recently in Milan, the house of Dolce and Gabbana made waves with a curated collection, done in collaboration with Kim Kardashian.

Apart from the big shows and their massive style spectacles, emerging brands making their early debuts on Fashion Week make September extra special. For the wandering, future-forward, and adventurous fashion observer, the very essence of a September in style lies largely on the discovery of under-the-radar, up-and-coming designers. Although we are weeks away from PFW, this round up of the most exciting emerging brands have already indicated that the future of fashion is in full bloom.

A Story on Courage and Bravery: Kris Maran Spring/Summer 2023

KRIS MARAN is a family owned, Ukrainian-based label run by Kristina Maria and Anna Stelmakh. Launched in 2018, the fashion brand is dedicated to “creating a day-to-night core wardrobe, which empowers a woman while reminding her of her inborn sensuality.” In February of this year, KRIS MARAN, along with countless other Ukrainian businesses, was forced to stop production.

It was two months after the war broke out that the KRIS MARAN team decided it was time to pick up the pieces and “rescue their fashion child.” The team elaborates: “It was an extremely hard decision for Anna and Kristina. The whole team was fighting for the new collection under the sounds of sirens to keep the brand going. Sometimes, they would hide under bomb shelter. But love for the brand overcame fear.”

The display of courage and dedication also saw KRIS MARAN’s debut at the recently concluded Helsinki Fashion Week. The Spring/Summer 2023 collection, Townless, struck the ideal balance between the feminine and masculine, strength and sophistication. Drawing from the poetry of Edgar Allan Poe and the deep waters, the collection spoke truth about the human spirit and its relation to nature.

Kristina and Anna add, “While the brand is a mindset that morphs and explores new ways of simplicity, the SS23 collection is a manifesto to indestructible beauty, that reveals faith, and a brave response to the harsh realities in our motherland. A battle for what we believe in. We wanted to remind everyone that there is always a place for beauty even during the darkest storm.”

I fell just as quickly in love with the brand’s brave journey to Fashion Week as I did with the collection’s crisp, polished pieces. A muted blue windbreaker with military-inspired pockets and flaps now hangs in my closet–ready for new and daring Spring adventures.

A Tale Of Two Creators Letting Go: Palmer/Harding Spring/Summer 2023

The Spring/Summer 2023 collection of Palmer/Harding is a symbiosis of two design paths meeting at the crossroads. Led by design duo and Central Saint Martins alumnus Matthew Harding and Levi Palmer, the London-based brand is well loved in tight fashion cult circles. Since it was first launched in 2011, Palmer/Harding has seamlessly tied the knot between calculated structure and fluid drapery and deconstruction. The result: “Interesting clothes for interesting people.”

The Spring/Summer 2023, the collection liberates the independent design inclinations of two minds with differing creative processes and methods. Creative partnership and new forms follow through “a play with knotting two parts, a method of securing drape in which individual panels move in tandem creating symbiotic harmony.” Stand out pieces that were borne out of this most interesting creation process include: oversized denim and faux leather jackets, dramatic shirts and day dresses in brick red poplin. A tailored navy and white suit shirt is dressed in fringe to effect a balance between structure and movement. In true Palmer/Harding form, the collection elevated day dressing into a fashion moment.

The designers’ notes read: “The collection is a literal exploration into Palmer/Harding’s creative process. It can also be seen as an emotional narrative–a story of personal expectations giving rise to unnecessary stresses, and how in letting go of the preconceived notion and opening ourselves to new possibilities and ways of doing things, we learn to let go, reles and become freed.”

A Tribute to the Longest Serving English Monarch: Rue Agthonis

Rue Agthonis founder, Yanling Sha or Syl, never shies away from drama. Through her larger-than-life creations on the runway, she demonstrates a love for theater, acting, and icons of history. Exciting pairing of tweed with sequins and gingham with metallic veils make up a Spring/Summer 2023 collection that pays homage to Her Majesty, Queen Elizabe II. In an Instagram post last September 13, the team wrote: “Her majesty’s effortless style, charm, and sense of fun were evident in everything she did. Her passion and dedication in supporting young creatives will continue to inspire the next generation and many after them.”

For the brand’s Spring/Summer collection, Beyond the Imaginary, the opulent setting of the Corintia Ballroom was the fitting backdrop for a powerfully feminine collection of mini dresses, coordinates and tiered skirts and capelets. Each look sent down the runway echoed the new voices of youth, sophistication and glamor. There was a playfulness about the collection that also implied “a new path for creativity and confidence.” As it was when the brand was first launched, Beyond Imagining, calls out to everyone in the fashion community to awaken their inner rockstar, or better, yet, their inner royal.



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