Restaurant review: ‘Terre is tipped for two Michelin stars next month — but was our €778 dinner bill worth it?’

I don’t know whether Vincent Crepel is a believer in manifesting, but the display of his personal collection of Michelin Guides in the dramatically lit preservation corridor of Terre restaurant is surely a statement of intent. You pass through en route from pre-dinner drinks in the (curiously frumpy, given what lies ahead) salon — ‘The start of your journey!’ the restaurant manager tells us excitedly — to the dimly lit open kitchen, where the air smells tantalisingly of smoke.

here, the brigade greet you in unison. ‘Welcome!’ they shout, looking up from the tasks (many involving tweezers) in which they are engaged. You sit on stools at a high table so you can watch them work while the servers bring the amuses. Thankfully the chefs look to be a happy bunch, so their occasional ‘Yes Chefs’ in response to a question or instruction from Crepel don’t have the sinister, ominous feel they do in The Menu, a flawed film — also, incidentally, featuring a ‘journey’ — but one worth watching for its excoriating take on the absurdities of fine dining. 

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