Paul Smith Creates A Very Feminine AW23 Women’s Collection


Paul Smith’s newest autumn-winter 2023 collection is a unique one, inspired by the design and architecture of the modernist movement. For this collection Smith used abstract prints, tactile fabrics and instituted traditional tailoring to tell the collection’s sartorial story.

Known for his tailoring skills and ability to create a mean tuxedo, coat, or blazer, Smith chose to tackle the tuxedo, again. A cropped tuxedo jacket and skirt has been revamped. The British designer also chose to overpower and mix up traditional menswear codes with various looks. He took heritage checks, shirts with stripes, classic tailoring, evening wear and created clear in-your-face quite feminine looks with feminine silhouettes.

To do this Smith nipped in the waist on suits, he created slim shirts, as well as high-waisted un-symmetric pants, fitting turtlenecks, draped dresses, and ruched pants. “In particular, a new tailored jacket shape, with strong shoulders, a tied waist and cutaway detail through the front emphasizes an hourglass fit,” says the House. “Reflecting that more refined mood, hemlines are also longer with midi, maxi and floor lengths – reinforcing the versatility of day-to-night dressing.”

From the silhouettes to the palette, Smith incorporated prints drawn from interior and upholstery fabrics with the “Botanical Collage” and “Rug” print. He chose smoother fabrics this season from silk, to crepe, to fluid satin, worsted wool, denim, houndstooth, shearling, tweed, and suede. And a black, gray, and white color palette is the constant, with fall tones of mauve, brown, and burgundy- as well as additions of powder pink and cobalt blue.

The Mulberry x Paul Smith bag is a part of the collection, which was firstly introduced at the Paul Smith men’s AW23 show in January. A bag done in collaboration with another British brand, Mulberry. It has a unique take on the Mulberry messenger bag, the Anthony that includes the Paul Smith signature stripe webbing traps and color blocking and shadow stripe embossing. The bag is made in the UK at Mulberry’s carbon-neutral Somerset factory with the leather coming from Gold Standard tanneries certified by the Leather Working Group.

The collection was photographed by Casper Kofi, styled by Nell Kalonji, modelled by Lily McMenamy, with hair done by Louis Ghewy and makeup by Patrick Glatthaar.


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